A true network-wide Starlink outage is rare — the last major one lasted about 2.5 hours and affected millions of users. Most of the time, the problem is closer to home: a blocked dish, a loose cable, or a router that needs rebooting. This page checks the public network feed and walks you through the 60-second test that tells the difference.
The live check is still loading — you can start the 60-second diagnosis below right now.
These are the questions people ask when their connection drops and they need a straight answer fast.
Wide outages affecting millions of users are genuinely rare. The last major documented network outage was July 24, 2025 — a software failure that knocked service out for roughly 2.5 hours. Before that, similar events were spaced many months apart. What is not rare is individual connection problems that feel like an outage but are caused by a blocked dish, a loose cable, a router that needs rebooting, or a software update installing overnight. Those happen to individual households regularly and have nothing to do with Starlink’s network.
Open the Starlink app on your phone. If it shows a “Network outage” or “Service disruption” alert, the problem is upstream — on Starlink’s side, not yours. If the app shows “Searching,” “Obstructed,” or no alerts at all, start troubleshooting your local setup. The app alert is the single most reliable signal — more reliable than crowd-report sites, which sometimes spike from routine individual problems rather than real network events.
Sometimes, briefly. Light rain and moderate wind have almost no measurable impact. A heavy thunderstorm can reduce speeds by 40–60% and cause outages lasting seconds to a few minutes. Snow accumulation on the dish blocks the signal — but the dish has a built-in heater that melts it automatically under normal conditions. Extreme heat can also trigger thermal throttling. Weather-related drops are self-resolving — the connection comes back on its own once conditions improve. If your outage outlasts the storm by more than 20–30 minutes, weather is no longer the culprit.
“Searching” means the dish is trying to lock onto satellites. This is normal for 2–5 minutes after a reboot or power cycle. It also appears during firmware updates, which Starlink pushes automatically overnight. If the dish has been searching continuously for more than 15–20 minutes with no weather or obstruction explanation, that’s worth investigating further — check for a loose cable first, then try a full power cycle. If it persists beyond 30 minutes of searching with clear skies, submit a support ticket from the app.
Yes, and this is one of the most common causes of repeated brief outages. Starlink dishes need a clear, unobstructed view of a large arc of sky — not just straight up, but angled toward the horizon in several directions. A tree, roofline, chimney, pole, or neighbor’s building that clips even a corner of that arc can cause outages lasting seconds that repeat dozens of times per day. The Starlink app includes an obstruction tool that lets you point your phone at the sky to see exactly what’s blocking the dish’s view. If obstruction percentage exceeds 10%, you’ll notice buffering, failed video calls, and dropped connections regularly.
Yes — and this is new as of 2026. Starlink added a 24/7 support phone line powered by xAI’s Grok AI at 888-GO-STARLINK (888-467-8275). You speak with an AI voice assistant that can work through common issues with you and schedule a callback from a human agent if needed. For account issues and non-emergency support, the Starlink app’s Support tab (tap Support → Contact Support → describe your issue) remains the fastest way to reach the team and creates a written record of your case. There is no general email address — all contact runs through the app or the phone line.
Only if the Starlink app is not reporting a wider network outage. If the app confirms an outage on Starlink’s side, resetting your dish accomplishes nothing and doesn’t speed up restoration. Power-cycling during a network outage is the most common waste of troubleshooting time. If the app shows no network alert and you’ve ruled out weather and obstruction, then a single power cycle (unplug the power supply, wait 30 seconds, reconnect) is a reasonable next step. Let the dish sit for 3–5 minutes after powering back on before concluding it didn’t help.
Chronic intermittent drops that aren’t tied to a single event have a different set of causes than a one-time outage. The most common are: obstruction creeping in as trees grow or installation shifts; a damaged or kinked cable (the Gen 3 cable is proprietary — even a small kink can cause intermittent signal loss); router interference from other WiFi devices; or network congestion during peak hours (typically 7–11 PM) if your area’s satellite coverage cell is heavily loaded. Check the app’s Outage History tab — it logs every drop with timestamp and reason code, which points you directly at the cause.
Answer three quick questions. You’ll get a diagnosis and the right first step.
1 — Are all devices in your home offline, or just one?
2 — What does the Starlink app show right now?
3 — Did this start suddenly while everything was working normally?
If the app shows “Network outage” or “Service disruption,” the problem is on Starlink’s side, not yours. This is a more reliable signal than anything else on this page — including the live check above, which reads the public status feed rather than your specific terminal.
One device going offline points to that device — its WiFi card, VPN, DNS settings, or app. Every device in your house losing internet simultaneously points to something between the router and the satellites: the cable, the dish, power, or a real outage.
Drops that consistently happen at 8–10 PM suggest peak-hour congestion in your satellite cell. Drops that match storms suggest weather interference. Drops at random times with clear skies that repeat every few minutes are almost always an obstruction.
The same symptom — no internet — can mean five very different things. Match your situation to the right column before touching any hardware.
| What the app shows | Most likely cause | What to do first | Touch the dish? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Network outage alert | Starlink-wide software or infrastructure issue | Wait. Monitor app and status page | No — wait it out |
| Offline — Searching | Reacquiring satellites, firmware update, or cable issue | Wait 5–10 min; then check cable; then power-cycle once | Maybe — check cable first |
| Obstructed | Tree, building, roofline blocking dish view | Run app obstruction tool; relocate or raise dish | Yes — dish needs repositioning |
| No alert, all devices down | Router, cable, power, or localized service issue | Inspect cable connections; check power; power-cycle once | Maybe — check power/cable first |
| No alert, one device only | Device WiFi, DNS, VPN, or app-level issue | Toggle WiFi on/off on device; disable VPN; restart app | No — not a dish problem |
Work through these steps exactly as listed. Skipping to a factory reset before checking a cable is the most common way to add an hour to your troubleshooting.
Starlink’s support landscape changed significantly in 2026. There is now a phone line — but it’s AI-first, with a human callback option.
First: open the Starlink app. If it shows a “Network outage” alert — that’s your answer. Starlink knows, they’re working on it, and there is nothing you can do to speed up the fix. Monitor the app and statuspage. If the app shows NO outage alert: check the cable from the dish to the power supply (loose connector is the #1 local cause), then check for weather at your location, then power-cycle once and wait 5 minutes. Do not factory-reset the dish unless Starlink support specifically instructs you to.
Slow speeds without a full drop usually come from one of three things: (1) Peak-hour congestion — if it’s 7–11 PM and your satellite coverage area is heavily loaded, speeds can drop significantly. This improves on its own. (2) Obstruction — a partial blockage doesn’t always cut you off completely but drags speed down persistently throughout the day. Run the app’s obstruction check. (3) A firmware update installing in the background — speeds recover once it completes. Check the app’s Statistics → Uptime section to see whether an update is in progress.
Heavy rain and strong storms can reduce Starlink speeds 40–60% and cause brief outages. Snow on the dish will block signal until the built-in heater melts it — typically within 30–45 minutes at normal temperatures. Wait out the storm before troubleshooting anything. If your connection hasn’t returned within 30–45 minutes after weather has cleared, then start checking power and cable. Weather-related drops are almost never caused by a hardware problem — they’re a known satellite characteristic that resolves itself.
Repeated brief outages — seconds of dropout, then recovery, over and over — almost always mean obstruction. Trees, rooflines, chimneys, and nearby structures can clip the dish’s sky view enough to cause dozens of drops daily while never taking you fully offline. Check the app’s Outage History (Settings → Starlink → Statistics → Outage History) — if you see a pattern of short, frequent drops with “Obstruction” listed as the cause, the dish needs to be moved higher or repositioned. This is not a Starlink network problem. It is a local installation issue that only you can fix.
Call 888-GO-STARLINK (888-467-8275) — available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. An AI voice assistant will walk you through the steps at your pace and can schedule a callback from a human agent if needed. Before you call, have two things ready: your Starlink account email address, and the account number shown on your Starlink invoice or in the app. That’s all that’s required. You don’t need to understand how satellite internet works to get the problem fixed — that’s what the support line is for.
Note: This widget reads Starlink’s public status feed but cannot see your individual terminal. Your Starlink app is always the most accurate source for problems specific to your account and service address.